Tailoring days 7 & 8!!

Sorry world, I know, I got slack and didn't post yesterday... I just have such a hard time remembering all the things I did!!!

So, my Monday started with repairing Thursday evenings mistakes: the front was still crinkled, so it came down to removing the interfacing tape holding the canvas to the front, and all associated stitches. Then, I could repair it all - interfacing tape, basting, machine just outside the hem; pin, tack, machine x3 the rows of trim, which I now allowed extra ease into, and they ended up barely being long enough - I guess this was a large part of what went wrong originally. My hem was then re tacked up, and I was back where I'd started - 5 hours of my Monday gone.

Then, I started the painful process of inserting my sleeves. My armhole measured 61.5cm, and my sleeve-head 66.5 - 5cm is a lot of difference with a difficult fabric. After much angst, I pinned, tacked, and sewed them in as best I could for a Monday, and went home. (3 hours)

Coming back in today, I decided the sleeves just weren't good enough. So, out they came, and I started again. Pin, check, tack, check, ease, check check... machine sew. adjust the few tiny little 'pokes'... Then, they were in!!! The next few steps went quickly - iron sleevehead seam allowance, to try and shrink it in a little bit; trim back seam allowances (1cm under the arm, 1.5cm forward of the arm through to the shoulder, and as much as possible at the back, where future alterations will take place); and hand catch the lining closed. The lining sleevehead fitted in nicely, with no real dramas!! This made me happy. (4.5 hours)

Then, it looked like a jacket!! I spent 2 hours pulling out all my tacking threads at this stage, it was difficult as some had been sewn in place, and the really unfortunate ones had been interfaced in place. But, I got them all. At this stage, I also finalised my lining hem, with a 1cm pleat in the lining to allow for movement.

Last but not least, I attached my cuffs, simply with a felling stitch of thick button thread. The 'hind' arm seam on both the cuff and the sleeve were pressed flat (not round), to give it a nice corner at the back. And then it was DONE!!!

So, I have finished my first coat, and learn loads from it. I spoke with Thorsten at the end of the day, and he said that whatever my hours had been on this jacket, he would help me work out how to make it faster on the next one - I can spot a few obvious things to do differently myself, but will look forward to his suggestions. Obviously not botching the CF braid and interfacing tape will be a start, and not wasting 2 hours completely redoing the sleeves will be another big thing. The grand total of hours spent on this jacket, was 60. Suz usually takes 48, Thorsten said it's possible to do it in 40. (Ha! For him, I'm sure it's true, but it certainly isn't true for me). I'm proud of my 60 hours, and I certainly hope that I can get this one done in 52-54, or 6-7 work days. The race will be on in the morning, and so now I must get to sleep.